Root & Wire

Beginner

Your first tree, or your first year with a nursery plant you want to turn into one.

A repotting layout: tree with bare roots, wire, pliers and two pairs of cutters
Photo: Herusutimbul, CC BY-SA 4.0. Credits

12 itemsRoughly £100 to £290, our estimate: check the shop.

Bonsai needs fewer tools than the shops suggest and better ones than the cheapest kit. This list is everything a first year asks for and nothing it does not: cut, wire, repot, feed, water.

Buy the shears and the concave cutter well; they last decades. Everything else can be modest. The book is not optional.

In the order to buy them

Contains affiliate links.

  1. Bonsai shears (long-handled, stainless)

    Most of what you cut in a year is twigs and shoots; these do that cleanly and reach inside the canopy.

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    What to look for

    Long handles and short blades, stainless or carbon steel that will take an edge, a spring-free scissor action. Avoid tiny 'gift set' shears: the handles are too short to reach into a canopy.

  2. Concave branch cutter

    The one cut secateurs cannot make: a branch removed flush so the wound heals into the trunk.

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    What to look for

    A forged head that closes cleanly, 180 to 210 mm for most trees. The concave bite leaves a hollow that heals flush; ordinary secateurs leave a stub that scars.

  3. Anodised aluminium wire, 1 to 4 mm

    Aluminium forgives a beginner: easy to put on, easy to take off before it bites. 1.5, 2 and 3 mm cover a first tree.

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    What to look for

    Anodised brown aluminium in 1, 1.5, 2, 2.5, 3 and 4 mm; 100 g or 500 g reels. Easy to apply and remove; use a gauge about a third of the branch's thickness.

  4. Bonsai wire cutter

    Wire comes off by cutting it, never unwinding; the right cutter does it without bruising the bark.

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    What to look for

    A short-nosed cutter that bites wire flush against bark without crushing it. Electricians' snips work for aluminium but not safely for copper on a branch.

  5. Akadama (hard, medium grade)

    With the pumice, a mix that drains in a wet winter and still holds enough water for a hot week.

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    What to look for

    Hard-fired, medium grain (about 3 to 6 mm), double-line brand or similar. Soft akadama breaks down in a wet winter; sieve the dust out before use.

  6. Pumice (3 to 6 mm)

    The half of the mix that never breaks down.

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    What to look for

    Sieved horticultural pumice; holds air and some water, does not break down. The backbone of any mix where winters are wet.

  7. Drainage mesh and tie-in wire

    Every repot needs drainage mesh and tie-in wire; have them before the day.

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    What to look for

    Plastic mesh sheet for the drainage holes and 1.5 to 2 mm aluminium to tie the tree in. Both are cheap and both are necessary at every repot.

  8. Bamboo chopsticks (plain)

    For working soil into the roots and for telling you when the pot is dry.

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    What to look for

    Plain, untreated bamboo. For working soil into a root ball without air pockets, and as a moisture gauge left in the pot.

  9. Plastic training pot

    A tree in development belongs in a deep, cheap pot. The ceramic one comes later.

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    What to look for

    A deep, oval or rectangular plastic pot with big drainage holes; mica or terracotta-coloured. For the years before the tree earns a ceramic pot.

  10. Slow-release organic fertiliser pellets

    Trees in a small pot eat what you give them. Organic pellets are slow and forgiving.

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    What to look for

    A balanced organic pellet (fish or seaweed based) in baskets on the soil, topped up through the growing season; a low-nitrogen autumn feed for conifers.

  11. Fine-rose watering can or mist sprayer

    A fine rose stops you washing the soil out of the pot.

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    What to look for

    A long-necked can with a fine rose so the soil is not washed out, or a pump mister for moss and new leaves.

  12. Bonsai Masterclass (Peter Chan)

    A practical first book. Read it before you cut anything.

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    What to look for

    Plain and practical; the one book to read first.